Unter den Linden, Berlin

Brno – Prague – Berlin from the 2nd till the 8th of June

First, let me reflect on the events that took place the 29th of May. What was the greatest day of Dutch cycling in decades, Tom Dumoulin winning the Giro d’Italia, turned out to be the blackest day of this journey so far. The Parcycle got stolen, right in front of my accommodation in broad daylight. Those thieves must have come well prepared for the job, with a van, or with four strong guys lifting it and walking away with it. Slowly I’ve come to terms with it, but what I do regret most, was not listening to my inner voice when I saw the bike being tipped over the first morning of my stay in Brno. The caretaker persisted that the bike was safe at the place where it was parked. Drunken students done that. I should think nothing of it. My inner voice said: “Park the bike under the window of your room, that’s much safer and it will be out of direct sight.” Why did I not listen to myself? Why didn't I ask my most asked question this trip: "Are you sure?" The caretaker/ porter guy and his wife were of age, and supposedly they did know what they were talking about. How wrong they were, and how wrong I was trusting these people. With the bike stolen, I also lost my trust in most of the people behind a desk doing some shitty service job. And one thing I did learn; go by your instincts! Also, what is not to be ruled out, an inside job by one of the porter guys. Help from them was minimal and empathy non present. An apology would have been in order. But what do I get when I ask a painful but to the point question? A face expressing disgust when being presented with such an embarrassment. What a bunch of careless assholes!

DHL however wasn’t faced by all of this. They arranged for a new, or refurbished bike, right away. And with only one day delay in Leipzig, I was again on the road the 2nd of June. This Parcycle wasn’t as tricked out as the stolen one. Obviously, they don’t keep those long distance haulers in store. So, the replacement bike was a ‘stock’ Bullitt. Eight speed hub and entry level brakes. Some slack in the bracket and fork. Different handlebars, but altogether a similar looking two wheeled yellow painted tank ready for action!

To be honest, with the stolen bike there wasn’t much love lost. But how I missed it the stages to Prague! An eight speed hub is designed for city purposes and flat roads. Leaving the Danube valley meant climbing, and climbing fucking steep! How much I relied on those 30 gears and high end brakes became very clear all too soon. Almost every hill had to be taken in first gear, and that proved to be pretty exhausting! Pushing as hard as I could, I ploughed on. Descending fast with a shimmying front end and spongy brakes gave the experience an interesting angle, to put it mildly.

Brno – Jihlava (Pavov) 2nd June, 115 kms

I got invited by Kamil of DHL Brno to stay at his place. So the invitation became a sort of ‘make or break’ deadline. It took me ten hours on the bike to reach his place. But it was worth it. Got to meet his wife and a couple of friends who didn’t speak one word foreign. ‘Home made’ was the keyword that evening and the next morning. From the fresh spread on the bread, the rhubarb jam, the pigs lard to the selection of ‘Slimovtisjes’. Sixty percent ‘Slimo’ burned a hole in my stomach, but the others were quite good! Kamil is a good and hospitable guy, a free spirit that travels around the world whenever he’s got a few bucks to spend. A car enthusiast as well. But the good kind. Classic four wheel drives is his vice! Hahaha!

Jihlava – Benesov 3rd June, 107 kms

It was during this stage that I thought: ‘That’s it. In Prague, I’m gonna pack it in. This is too hard, I can’t do this no more.’ A truly hellish ride, even more exhausting then the day before. Finding a place to stay was a task as well. The steep unforgiving hills had broken my will. And although the scenery was beautiful, I’d lost real interest in it. I ate a meal and went to bed tired as hell.

Benesov – Prague 4th June, 64 kms

A short ride to Prague. Had to negotiate a 12% climb the first half. With two long pauses I made it without having to walk. That’s a win! And actually from that climb on, I regained energy and confidence. Through Prague in the rain on those slippery cobble stones, dealing with street car rails, with the mobile in one hand to navigate to the pension. Riding on full alert, but it was okay. And such a city is even more prettier in the rain. But I stayed only one night, and so far away from the city centre that I lost interest to make a visit. Some other time perhaps. Next day it was on to another DHL encounter!

Prague – Usti nad Labem 5th of June, 75 kms

The guy that had arranged for the DHL meeting couldn’t be present, so an improvised tour through the warehouse was arranged and a real delivery close by. DHL Prague is a huge operation and the warehouse resembles a bit like the Bratislava one. They have the same sorting machine, a Dutch make, so it must be good! Hahaha! (I think Pavol of Bratislava has a different opinion on that matter, hahaha!)

Short and sweet visit, and within an hour I was on the road, direction Dresden. After 75 kilometres mostly along the Elbe, I hit the spongy brakes in Usti nad Labem (Elbe). What an amazing and beautiful ride! Great panoramic views that reminded me of the Danube. Some off road as well, but these tires don’t have that much grip on loose surface (I still miss ‘m!). And what I miss most, my selection of tools that were in the box of the stolen one. Some irreplaceable ones that I had held on for over thirty years. Yes, I was only five when I started collecting tools! Anywho, moving on…

Usti nad Labem – Dresden 6th of June, 100 kms

Beautiful ride. Even more prettier than the day before. Great cycling weather as well. I’ve been lucky in that department, I must say. From the start on, good weather has been my steady companion. First stay at a ‘Warm Showers’ address. Private people offer their couch or spare bedroom to fellow cyclists. Great way to meet locals and get some advice on what road to travel. Martin and Stefanie spoke Dutch as well! Due to studies followed in the Netherlands. Shifting back to Dutch in Germany with people who spoke excellent English as well, proved to be a bit of linguistic challenge for my brain. But it was a great stay and I got some good advice how to map out a route to Berlin. Following the Elbe for as long as possible was one of the great benefits of this new route.

Dresden – Ilmenhof 7th of June, 129 kms

Not a bad day at the office. First 40 or fifty kilometres were along the pretty Elbe. What a joy that was, and I must remember to do that again! Then the route took a right turn, direction North West. And almost at once the scenery bored down. Slow rolling hills with huge agricultural fields. None of it I haven’t seen before. But one thing stands out; German drivers are the best! They overtake as wide as possible, and if they can’t overtake they remain calm behind you. No aggression whatsoever! These people are a real breath of fresh exhaust fumes! Kudo’s to them and their driving teachers!

Fremdenzimmer in Ilmenhof. What an awkward word is that, ‘Fremdenzimmer’. To put away unwanted people or store freaks of nature in? But the owner and his wife were extremely friendly. Good people. Good food. Good beer. Good stay.

Ilmenhof – Berlin 8th of June, 96 kms

Not a ride that will stand the test of time. Lots of forest though. Bike lanes as well. Some good, some really poorly maintained. But the effort counts. And then all of a sudden you’re in Berlin. Big city, with not so much high risers as I expected. Lots of modern architecture due to the devastation of the war. Some good, some already dated. Seen the touristic scenes right away. Alexander Platz, Kuhrfursten Damm, Reichstag and so on… Found a place in a Hostel/ Hotel type accommodation. For two nights.

This day was a rest day. Bought a lock for the bike which was highly recommended! Changed Czeck money and Trump dollars for real money (our unloved Euro’s!). And wrote these words. A real day at the office…hahaha!

Cheers, Paul 9th of June Berlin.