Constanta - Bechet

Bechet 04-05-2017

On the verge of re-entering Bugaria along the river Danube, it is time to update the progress of the journey. Last article was about reaching Constanta. An old harbour city, being the third biggest harbour of Europe makes it a visit worthwhile. I biked down to the little dhl Servicepoint in the city and met with Ernest Junger. We spoke about my journey, and actually me arriving there was somewhat of a surprise to them. This all got sorted out later that evening when we met again for pictures at the most characteristic monument that Constanta has on offer, the Jugendstil build like casino at the beach. Pity that it is in decay and poor state, but a great backdrop for some promotional shots. Ernest told me a lot about the history of the city and showed me some great places, like Ovidiu square which was recently redone in a tasteful way. A great dinner to mark the occasion, and of I went the next day.

Constanta – Harsova 100 kms 26-04-2017

Not a lot I can recall about this stage, except for the E-60 being the main road to avoid at all costs! So I finally did after a mere 25 kilometres I got on this beautiful small road that really showed the beauty of Romania. Easy rolling hills, with agricultural fields that seem to stretch out forever. Also, the land was scattered with thousands of wind turbines, it gave the landscape a sci-fi outlook. As if the country was taken over by these giants. Going through these rural surroundings at a human speed, you really start to appreciate what you’re experiencing. At least I did. I made far more miles than if I’d gone by the E-60, but what a relaxing day it was! Finding a place to stay in Harsova proved to be a bit difficult but I managed to find a decent looking restaurant/ pension. Pity that the accommodation was struck by a shortage of running water. The shower was out of order, and I could only splish-splash my body at a washbasin. I rinsed out my cycling gear in the same basin, and that was it for the water supply. Brushing teeth or anything else wasn’t going to happen… But a beer, a good meal with some excellent wine and those unimportant details vanished like snow in the sun.

Harsova – Ion Roata 130 kms 27-04-2017

Again a start on the E-60. Now for a good 36 kilometres. In Tandarei I was determined to leave this road that was starting annoy me big time. At first I ventured of in the wrong way and still ended up on this motor speedway. Had a coffee at restaurant near a gas station, and studied the roadmap as if my life was depending on it. Well in fact, it did. So retracing my route, back to Tandarei that put an extra 15 kilometres on the odometer. Got on the desired track and there I was;  in a more quiet place, on a more quiet road and in a far more better mood! Rolling landscapes and little towns, like it was yesterday. But to find a place to sleep I needed to go back to this road of terror. As pretty as these little country towns are, they don’t provide for touristic accommodations. And yes, a motel was found soon enough along the much dreaded (at least by me) E-60 . Reasonably priced, cold beer and well, you know by now how the routine works… Didn’t expect to be problems with running water here though. But they had them as well. Cold, or semi cold shower in the evening was already a bad omen. And yes, in the morning, no running water whatsoever. Sometimes it can be a good thing, not to take every day conveniences for granted. In this case, two days in a row without a water supply as you’re used to. Kinda makes you appreciate it even more, and think about it when you open up the tab and let it run indefinitely…

Motel – Bucuresti 102 kms 28-04-2017

So, the stage to Bucuresti easily goes down as the most epic one on the old continent, Europe. So far anyway. From the motel I did like 20-25 kilometres on this horror Highway, and I just had about enough of it. First at Cosereni I made a left onto Sintesti. The map indicated a small road, that was almost parallel to the E-60. The road was soon not only unpaved, it had stone slab as a surface. The Parcycle surfed the loose stones like a whale. No good, and a bitch to ride uphill. Never mind what descending would be like… So back to square one again. A bit more on the road of self-destruction and the exit to Movilita emerged. This I would take, or I would call it quits. I was desperate, dead tired of this killer road. It depressed me in big way. So Movilita it was. And, it was alright. Unpaved, but ridable until I had to cut through fields, that only had tractor tracks… But no way I was going back to Evil-60. Bogged down in the mud? No problem. I pushed through, through dirt and crap. Using the map and the compass on my GPS as a guide to point me in the right direction. With only 24 kilometres to go I finally joined a bigger, car going road. But this wasn’t my unloved E-60. Yeah, cars still flew by at the speed of sound, but the battle in the field hardened me. Close to Bucuresti, I pulled over at a fast food restaurant. Kicking of the mud at the parking lot made for some eyes to roll out of their eye sockets. Admiring looks from staff and clients. Short conversations about what the hell I was doing. The kind of reception I like… A shawarma and a beer please.

I spend two nights in Bucuresti, at a rather expensive hotel. No dhl encounters in this city. It was the weekend and a bank holiday coming up for the 1st of May. So a rest day it was, and I hang around for a bit, went to the former Ceausescu palace, where now parliament resides. Took the obligatory touristic pictures and decided to move the next day.

Bucuresti – Giugiu 82 kms 30-4-2017

And as epic as the last stage was, this was as humdrum as they come. For a great distance I managed to stay clear from the big roads, but this day, half way, I caved in. The day started rainy, but by eleven o’clock it dried out nicely. The first motel on the right in Giurgiu I pulled over to get a room. Cheap, decorated in the eighties and apparently untouched since, made for a time warp experience. What a shitty decade that was!

Giurgiu – Zimnicea 63 kms 01-05-2017

First real stage along the river Danube. Great panoramic views on delta’s but also on enormous fields of rape. Hot ride as well, ever since Constanta it had been great cycling weather. Shorts, and fully zipped open shirt. In Zimnicea I looked at the map. Next big town, 50 more kilometres. Could be done, but I was tired and the big Hotel sign lured me in to stay. Great room, with all the trimmings. Cold shower though… The response to my investigative question at the reception, was to run the tab for five minutes in order to allow for the warm water to make the climb up to the fourth floor. Well that sounds like a really green and environmentally sound solution. Why was I put up this high, with the place being nearly empty still baffles me. Zimnicea being a ‘one horse town’, it doesn’t offer much variety on restaurants. So the hotel restaurant, it is then. Met Tim Shepard there. First he sat a couple of tables away from me. But when I noticed the distinctive cycling tan line, I couldn’t resist to holler out if he was push biker by any change. And so he was. He started out in England on his journey and finishes off in Burgas. Great time we had, and a great fellow to meet. In exchange for some stones, to throw at dogs, I got his tour guide where he travelled by. He also predicted that I would meet up with many more bikers going down the Danube. Good thing I am going the other way then, hahahah! Also took his advice to go the next day to Vila Giulia, in a little town called Islaz. And so I did.

Zimnicea – Islaz 67 kms 2-5-2017

More or less a continuation of the day before. Pretty ride, smooth. With again, these great sites to behold. Does it ever get boring? Maybe for you to read about it. To bike through them, is a sheer privilege. Another encounter with some bikers. Stephane, a Frenchman who is embarking on a world tour of cycling and in fact only just beginning. Great positive guy, and not surprisingly he found everything about my trip “Aahhh, fantastique!” Romanian Emile who rode with him, did a much shorter, almost domestic, trip to Bucuresti. Nice to meet these sorts of people. They understand what you’re doing and there’s an immediate connection, like with Tim. This is also what I’ve been missing, the interaction with similar minded travellers. In Asia I was the only one on a bike, or at least the only traveller on a bike. And because of ignorance, lack of education or just plain good manners I was laughed at or ridiculed. That doesn’t hurt much, but it stings in a nasty way. Respect from your fellow companions can do a lot for moral, I tell yah that. But it’s also excellent for exchanging experiences. Tips and tricks for the road. Brilliant!

Vila Giulia, run by an Italian couple is a Roman dream captured in bricks and mortar. Eclectic decorated rooms with furniture and pictures from around the globe make it out to be an universal and intercultural experience. The garden itself must have been designed by the Great Spirit in the Sky. Exaggerated? Go check it out for yourself then. I would revisit solely for the homemade jam, and the most charming Lady of the property of course. There’s a green thought for yah…

Islaz – Bechet 70 kms 03-05-2017

No, I ain’t gonna bore you no more with more descriptions of lovely landscapes and the great panoramic outdoors. This little ride made me rethink why so many Romanian people sit outside in front of their houses, seemingly unemployed, but always hitting a gallon sized bottle of beer. So why do they do that? Well, nearly each middle sized town is littered with industrial ruins. Abandoned, empty factories that obviously seen better days. And these people, now alcoholics, used to work in those factories. But apparently have been put out of business by low wages economies, that being Asian/ Chinese for the big part.

Then, another observation, I saw a dead badger by the side of the road. God, I must have seen thousands of dead animals that were struck by cars or trucks. Foxes, cats, dogs, frogs (they always lie in the heart wrenching ‘Help!’ position), a variety of birds, too much to list. And all in a different stage of decomposition. Ranging from ‘fresh from the bumper’, through to unrecognizable bits of fur glued through black remainders of skin to the tarmac. Well, if it was a vicious dog that met its untimely demise, I couldn’t care less. Those bastards deserved it, I guess. I got chased so many of times, it doesn’t confront me anymore. And with some stones always in my back pocket, I manage to hit a few as well hahaha! You should see their faces, once hit. “Ohw shit, did he really do that?”

And as for birds, well Bulgaria, but also Romania, must be a heavenly like place for bird watchers. I’ve seen hundreds of stalks nesting, singing birds, and lots of crows and ravens. Those last ones flog together in neighbouring trees, where they nest as well. And they communicate on a continuing basis. So passing underneath it on a bike, really can make for a ‘Hitchcockian the Birds’ like experience! The Real Deal!

So, that’s it for me now. Signing off for today. Hitting the road again tomorrow. Hopping over the border once more and staying for one more day in Bulgaria in a town called Sinagovci. Already booked the hotel, not my style to do that (where’s the adventure!), but it seemed like the sensible thing to do.

Cheers everybody!